At Last - Daily Links

Our first escape since the COVID germ has appeared. We head to Cornville, Arizona and the surrounding towns and places to experience the West.

Table of Content Links:

Friday - On the Road Again 

Saturday - There Be Copper in those Mountains

Sunday - A Big Hole!

Monday - Time to Go Hiking

Tuesday - A Venture into the Past

Wednesday - All Aboard! 

Thursday - A Wind Down Day! 

Friday/Saturday - Happy Trails to You...

Day 8 – Friday and the return

Happy Trails to you!

The time has come to begin our journey back to Virginia. One of the major benefits of being retired is that we no longer have to rush to get home only to go to work the next day. Embracing this benefit, we decided to take the back way to Phoenix on a bit of a less direct track. Our flight does not leave until Saturday around lunch so we can now ease back gracefully into the home life mode. The scenic route also makes an abundance of sense because the weatherman on the TV is calling for a high of 105 F in Phoenix today. Who wants to sit by the pool with that temperature?

Now with the 4 Runner packed, we said are goodbyes to Highland Ridge timeshare and started south. The funky birdman pointed the way, so we turned left and got on 89A once again. We began to retrace our drive up to Jerome, where we had such a wonderful day just a few short days ago. Unfortunately, we are not stopping but cruised through the downtown, and instead of turning right for the public parking we veer left and began to climb.

The roads are very well maintained, but boy are there some ups and downs along the way. The drive was not scary, but did stimulate the conversation regarding the smell of car brakes. There were a few cars that we encountered that left no doubt that the driver had been riding their brakes hard.

Our destination was Prescott, Arizona, a town long known for its western appeal where miners took respite after long hours in the mines and cowboys gathered for cattle drives. By the late 1800s, the Arizona Central Railway had connected Prescott to the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and the town was booming. Probably one of the most notable places in Prescott is South Montezuma Street, or as it is better known - “Whiskey Row”. In its heyday on this street of just a few blocks, there were over forty saloons. The Yavapai County Courthouse sits on the opposite side of the street from these historic blocks.

We headed down Whiskey Row to find us a saloon and enjoy a libation and some chow. After weaving through the curvy roads in the mountains, a cool drink was well deserved. We chose the historic The Palace Restaurant and Saloon as our watering hole and were greeted at the door by the sheriff. Thinking instead of pulling a gun, he would whip out a pistol thermometer and check to see if we were carrying the germ and take our temperatures. But no, he just smiled and welcomed us into the saloon. Stepping inside from the bright outdoors was like stepping into history. Granted the walls are covered in memorabilia now, but The Palace still has the aura of days gone by. We bellied up to the bar because sitting at a table just did not seem right. The bar itself was quite a piece of woodworking and the bartender could see us studying the details of the bar.

The bartender told us the story of the bar, which is the original one of The Palace, and of the great fire. A fire burned down Whiskey Row and a large portion of the business district of Prescott in July of 1900. During the fire customers broke the bar loose and carried it across the street to the grounds across the street on the court house lawn. The fire was put out with no loss of life or major injury, but for the most part the downtown was gone.

A major rebuilding effort was started almost immediately using bricks to replace the burnt wooden structures. As for the bar it was serving customers the next day in a tent across the street. Clean up crews, just like miners and cowboys, need a drink at the end of the day. The black and white picture is of Whiskey Row from the top of the courthouse a few days after the fire. And as Paul Harvey use to say and here is “the rest of the story” -  Prescott's Big Fire - a link to True West Magazine.

After the story, which she told quickly, it was back to work. The lunch crowd was flowing in and The Palace gets some kind of busy! We enjoyed our drinks and were mesmerized by all the historical paraphernalia on the walls around us. The Palace not only makes a good cocktail – the food is right good too!

We decided it best to walk off our lunch and do a little window shopping before we started the final leg to Phoenix. There are some very nice shops and very friendly people as we popped in and out shops. Prescott is truly worth the stop and enjoy a little history of the wild west.

Back on the road we both commented on how the panoramic views we had experienced in the last week were over the top - just breathtaking!

At one pull off to take it all in, we had to chuckle and what we saw left us with an unanswered question.

Had this woman just found a cell signal and was checking in or was she telling someone… “I do not know where I am! I just followed GPS and it is telling me that I am in the Paradise Valley Mall parking lot in Phoenix”. We will never know what the conversation was but it did bring us a smile.

After driving a little longer, we knew that Phoenix must be getting close. The famous saguaro cactus could be seen along the road, some with their white flowers in bloom.

Then 30 minutes later looking down and seeing the temperature gauge was reading over 100 F, we could see the city skyline.

Afternoon traffic in Phoenix was really intense going into the city, which surprised us. We had stayed off the interstate and entered into the city from the NW on 60. When we hit I-10 traffic pretty much came to a slow crawl. We thought everyone would be leaving the city heading out to the suburbs. Not so – both directions were crawling and the temperature gauge was rising.

By the time we arrived at the hotel in Tempe, near the airport, it had reached 106 F. It was time to head into the air conditioning!

We chilled in the hotel room because even going out to the pool was unthinkable. The last thing we wanted was a 95 degrees bath. The room would be our hideout for the rest of the day enjoying reading and chatting about the week.

We did go to a very nice restaurant for dinner. The House of Tricks, in Tempe, is across the street from of the Arizona State University. It was still in the 90s when we arrived at the restaurant, and believe it or not, we ate outside. It was a shady garden like setting, there was a misting device and it was absolutely lovely. We had even found a parking space right at the front door, albeit Tom was upset. He will never accept parking meters that require a credit card! However, he used his card while grumbling about quarters blah blah blah… It was the first night we did not choose from the Arizona wine selections available and went with one of our favorites, a Bandol Rosé.

Our journey home was uneventful and almost relaxing as travel goes. Our departure was not until 1 pm, so we slept in and had a wonderful breakfast before heading to the airport. As at DCA when we left, PHX was a hopping place! We found a quiet corner and waited for the flight.

The one thing of note on our return occurred as we were boarding the airplane. We had early boarding and had gotten settled when the announcement that the doors would be closing was broadcasted. A frazzled mother with two children had just boarded and was struggling to get seated behind us with her kids. The older child, maybe three, was giving mom a fit and in complete desperation she looked at Janet and said, “Here… Hold the Baby!” Janet did as she had been directed, and was astounded that a someone would just hand her a baby. Grandmother instincts kicked in and all was well until baby realized that she was not her mother. The picture says it all!

Now with everyone strapped in and motors running we began our journey home as it began - With a little John Prine on the monitor and a long nap until touchdown in DC.

Thoughts of home and with the lyrics of John Prine ringing in Tom’s ear buds “Blow up your TV, throw away your paper… Go to the country, build you a home… Plant a little garden, eat a lot of peaches… Try an' find Jesus on your own” Our trip had officially come to an end. 

Until next time, which we hope will be in November, unless the damn germ is still here! Join us as we do a Transatlantic Cruise with three other couples. Rome to New York with 9 stops and lots of pictures!

Day 7 – Thursday

A Wind Down Day!

Our adventure to the wild west was coming to an end. We had seen and experienced so much in the last week, but we still had some adventure left in us. It was decided another hike would be a good way to close out a wonderful week. We had been told Cathedral Rock was a must do! However, after reviewing the hiking guide and listening to the projected weather (hot – damn hot) we decided that may not be the best destination for the day. We chose the Crescent Moon Trail, which offers great views of Cathedral Rock and runs parallel to Oak Creek. The trail is flat and shaded so it seemed like the best way to close out the week.

Driving the long way to our morning activity to avoid the traffic of Sedona, we took in all the beauty around us. One cannot help to be in awe of the desolation and the beauty that Verde Valley offers. Unfortunately, yesterday on the train the big camera took a spill and the lens and camera body are no longer communicating. Primary picture duty now resides with the Canon G15 and our cell phones.

Arriving at Crescent Moon, we discovered it was part of the Coconino National Forest and not only was it a trail, but a beautiful picnic area. The park offered shaded parking, clean bathrooms, and it even came with an eleven-dollar entry fee. It was well worth the price of admission.

The trail was as advertised - flat, easy, and shaded. The water rippled along the trail and the stand of trees were beautiful including some very strange shapes we had never seen before. There were very few hikers, which made the walk even that more special. Oak Creek’s cool water offered a wonderful respite for man and beast.

At some points our shaded trail popped out briefly into open areas that offered spectacular views of Cathedral Rock. Once again the weatherman was correct, as the sun got higher so did the temperatures.

The two trails, Crescent Moon and Cathedral Rock, come very close to each other - just on different sides of the creek. The trails are night and day different. At certain points of the creek, one can cross over to the other the trail, but Tom was very happy on the side chosen. Every now and then we would hear very out of place noises of man and machine, only to look across and see an extreme biker trying to stay on the Cathedral Rock trail. Those dudes/dudettes who participate in that form of recreation have our greatest respect for their physical ability, albeit their mental faculties may be in question.

The creek for the most part is very shallow and meanders through the trees. There are sections where the water pools and it can be deep enough to discourage non-swimmers not to wade out into the creek.

Reaching the end of the trail we found a small rocky beach where a lady was relaxing listening to the water as it flowed over the rocks. There was no surprise when Tom struck up a conversation with her and learned her husband had crossed over the creek to explore the Cathedral Trail. We had chatted for a while when her husband crossed back to our side of the creek. After exchanging pleasantries with him we decided not to cross and head back.

Another lady, loaded down with bags and cameras, joined the couple on the beach as we were leaving. She decided to cross over the creek. Only steps away from the beach, we heard lots of noise and turned to see the woman struggling in the water after losing her footing. The man, who had just crossed the creek, was rushing out to help her. It was comical at first until we realized how grave the situation was. It was obvious the woman was in distress and needed help. Grabbing her and wedging his feet into the rocks the man held on tightly, but now also needed help to get the lady out of the water. Grabbing the hiker’s walking stick, Tom gave the man something to grab hold of and the lady wrapped her arms around his neck. They both pulled and were able to get the lady to the shore safely. There was no doubt that her camera got wet, but she was unharmed.

We delayed our return and sat at the beach and enjoyed more conversation with the man, who Tom now calls “The Rock”, and his wife. A little more exciting than we hoped for on our walk but still a lovely morning. It was a beautiful spot to chill for a while.

The walk back to the car was just as beautiful and the sounds of the water seemed more alive. There is just something about the sound of water that we enjoy. Listening to it on a beach in St John, a waterfall in North Carolina, or this creek in Arizona, a sense of peace and joy floods your mind.

Back in the parking lot we stopped to speak to a park volunteer. Driving a flagged golf cart, he took the time to give us a brief history on the area, the park, and some details about Cathedral Rock.

Then turning, he pointed up and told us if we wanted to see a great view of the park and Cathedral Rock, take a right out of the parking lot and drive around that mountain. He told us where to find the gravel parking lot and the trailhead to the ledge above. 

Evidently the view is so stunning it is a prime choice for weddings in the area. Janet was all in… Tom was thinking about the trail. Did not look like there was any shade up there.

Finding the parking lot, we located the sign for the trailhead. Yep, as you can tell by the pictures, this is a Janet trail, and with the ominous name of Secret Slickrock Trail, Tom was concerned what lay ahead.

In actuality, it was a very short and beautiful walk with lots of cactus flowers and only a few slippery rocks. Albeit, Tom’s snake awareness was on heighten alert. Once again, no snakes were encountered and that was a good thing! Along the trail we encountered another biker who was managing to stay on and peddle through the rocks, sand, cracks and crevices.

Now on top, we found the biker that passed us taking a victory lap around the top before disappearing down the other side of the plateau. 

The park volunteer had not lied – It was beautiful up here and well worth the walk! Not sure if where we were standing was one of the famous vortex locations, but if not, it sure should be.

The spot offered 360-degree views of the canyon and the surrounding mountains. We spent quite a bit time on top of the hill just taking it all in. We headed back down the trail reluctantly to our car.

Realizing our adventures were coming to an end, we drove back to the timeshare taking many turnoffs and back roads to ensure these amazing views would be stored in the depths of our memories.

Passing by many of the more popular trails that are highlighted in the brochures of the area, the magnitude of people and cars at the trailheads made us glad we had sought out the ones we enjoyed.

Returning to Highlands Ridge, Janet headed to the pool to chill and Tom went to Tumbleweed Winery to get another bottle of Graciano for dinner. Lamb on the grill for our final meal deserved a wine of such quality. A very relaxing end to our last day in Cornville. With our return flight not leaving until Saturday, it was decided that tomorrow we would take the backway over the mountain on 89A to Phoenix and see what new adventures we could enjoy.

Day 6 – Wednesday

All Aboard!

In haze, we heard the strumming of a guitar followed by a rich male voice singing the words, “Here comes the Sun”. Ahh, it was Richie Havens and Tom’s alarm clock informing us that it was 3:55 a.m. and time to rise and witness the Super Flower Blood Moon! We rolled out of bed and headed outside to the Highlands Ridge parking lot to be part of the astronomical event. Reaching the bottom stair, we were both surprised to see another 10 to 15 people dressed in all different types of sleepwear staring into space.

We both immediately joined in and raised our heads upwards, only to find…

While we were sleeping, the cloud cover that obscured last night’s sunset had moved in blanketing the sky of the Verde Valley. Oh well, we met our timeshare neighbors and learned what their favorite sleeping attire was on vacation. We climbed back up the steps to our condo and did not reset the alarm.

The second wake up of the morning came a few hours later. Today is Verde Canyon Railroad ride! Back on day one as we checked in, we said we would listen to the timeshare spiel for two tickets on the sightseeing train and a free week. Our day had come! I know it sounds silly to be excited about riding on train to nowhere, but Tom was excited. He had fond memories of train riding as a child and will always opt for that mode of transportation if it is feasible. Eating breakfast quickly, Tom was in a hurry and so it was out the door headed to Clarskdale long before we needed to be there.

Ok, all fans of the band The Monkees please sing it loud… Take last train to Clark… Stop! The song is: Last Train to Clarksville not Clarkdale, but hey it was fun to turn back a few pages in time to 1966 and sing out loud. If you have not had enough, here is a link Last Train to Clarksville so you can keep singing. I know I could not get it out of my head while on the train and in fact, they played it along the way on the train which did not help.

Arriving at the Verde Valley Railroad station ninety minutes early gave us plenty of time to meander in town as well as visit the Copper Museum. Copper was such an important commodity in the valley and like Jerome, the depression hit Clarksdale hard.

The Arizona Copper Art Museum was full of beautiful works of art, from practical everyday items to things we never knew had their origins in copper. Room after room of just amazing things of beauty. This room was filled with a collection of pots and pans that any chef would love to have. There was copper everywhere.

Something we found interesting was that the “Mother Copy”, later called the “Master Copy”, of vinyl LP often was made of copper. The copper as a musical media came to an end in 90s, as did LPs with the introduction of digital music.

Of course, no copper museum would be without a collection of old fashion stills. These devices have fueled the working world for many moons and many more to come. The amount of copper and the workmanship in the devices was impressive.

We could have spent longer in this art museum, but it was time to head to the station. We have a train to catch!

Arriving at the station a solid 20 minutes before departure, the parking lot was packed. We had no idea that we would have so many traveling companions. The station was a buzz with travelers on this train to nowhere. We had to exchange our RCI voucher for our tickets and with them in hand, we jumped into the lunch line. One can buy a lunch for their ride, but after reviewing the menu of lunch items, we decided that the charcuterie with our ticket would suffice. We walked the length of the train looking for our car, which ended up being passenger car number two the Santa Fe Bell.

At last, the announcement Tom had been waiting for… “All Aboard”. We climbed on our assigned car and found our seats. Our ride today would start at milepost 38 in Clarksdale and travel to milepost 18 in Perkinsville. The cars were very comfortable and the windows were clean! As we departed the station, our car attendant gave us a brief overview of the trip, delivered our charcuterie, and took drink orders.

The cars are set up with tables for two on the right and tables for parties of four on the left. We got seated at a four top. The couple they paired us with was… I will just leave it at that… moving on. Now with a bottle of rosé for our ride, we settled in for our four-hour tour.

The journey to Perkinsville is approximately twenty miles and takes a little less than two hours. The train follows the Verde River weaving through beautiful rock formations and provides views of wildlife as you slowly chug westward.

It even goes through a 700-foot tunnel where the clearance is less than four inches from the walls. The tunnel was carved out by a small crew of Swedish miners using dynamite and picks and shovels in a very short time.

A nice feature of the train is that between every two passenger cars is an open-air car for better viewing and photos. Albeit it is loud, it is by far the best place to experience the journey.

Arriving in Perkinsville, the train comes to a stop. The engine decouples from the train and then recouples at the other end for the return. The turn-around takes about 30 minutes to complete so the attendants fill the time with stories and hand out ice cream sandwiches. 

Perkinsville was a filming site for the famous movie “How the West was Won”. The town was renamed to Gold City and in the film a train pulls into the station where Debbie Reynolds steps off to awaiting party. Behind the scenes story was when she stepped off the train the first time, she came down hard and broke her ankle. Being the actress, she was with no medical support in the middle of nowhere she drank a bottle whiskey belonging to a member of the crew, and the filming continued. We must go back and watch the movie to see how well she is hiding the pain of her ankle and the effects of Jack Daniels.

How the West was Won Scene

Perkinsville Trains Station Today

And so it is… The last will be first and the first will be last on the Verde Canyon Railroad. We were now one of the last cars on our journey home. Same tracks just a different perspective.

We settled into the seats of the Santa Fe Bell and began chatting with a nice couple from Richmond. We sipped on our rosé and watched the countryside go by. The one recommendation I would give anyone who would like to ride on the Verde Canyon Railroad would be to get a seat on the right side (even number seats) train. That is the side that offers the best views – both ways 😊. There is no doubt many would pass on this adventure because it may be judged as too touristy. It is very touristy, but it really was a great day on the train. The reality of it all is, if you are in Verde Valley, you probably are a tourist.

The train adventure completed, we were headed back to Cornville when we saw a small industrial building before entering Cottonwood. Tumbleweed Winery and Tasting Room was across the front of the building and our 4 Runner, almost on its own took a right turn into the parking lot. Afternoon wine tastings were becoming a recurring pattern.

Honestly, our expectations were low, but very quickly the quality of the wine changed our minds. Primarily featuring Spanish and Italian indigenous grapes, Tumbleweed’s wines were first rate. The tasting area was outside and for the most part we were their only customers. We tasted a wide array of their wines, both red and white, and all were well made. One of Tom’s favorite grapes is Graciano, which is usually a blending grape in Rioja. Graciano is deep purple grape that has amazing aromas and has a long finish that allows blackberries and cedar to linger. We truly enjoyed our tasting here and we now had in our possession our second Arizona wine that would be transported to Virginia.

Back at Highland Ridge, we fired up the grill and enjoyed a wonderful dinner followed by a long relaxing evening in the hot tub. Life does not get much better than this.